Tips for blending in like a local in Cape Verde

In this post I am sharing my tips for blending in like a local when travelling in Cape Verde. It was February 2015 when I first set foot on Santiago, the main island of Cape Verde. I was lucky enough to take part in a social investment programme my company organises. This involved spending a week with a Cape Verdean organisation looking after protected areas in the county. It gave me the privilege to travel Cape Verde through local eyes!

That week went by much too quickly and when we returned home, my colleague and I agreed we had taken much too little time to really explore the country. So later that year we were back at Praia airport to do the country justice. Again, a week went by much too quickly, and ever since we’ve both had that nagging feeling of “unfinished business” whenever Cape Verde came up in conversation. In roughly a month’s time, we’ll be on the plane to Praia once again with a list of things to see and do. As I’m finalising preparations for the trip, this is the perfect time for a little throwback.

About Cape Verde

When I first read about the organisations taking part in the social investment programme at my company, Cape Verde didn’t really ring a lot of bells with me. African archipelago, Portuguese connection and that was about it – how embarrassing. To my relief, I later found that many people haven’t even heard of Cape Verde. Not rightfully so, because it is a great place to travel.

In 1975, Cape Verde (or officially Cabo Verde) was one of the last countries on the African continent to gain independence from their colonial masters, the Portuguese. The process of independence was peaceful and Cape Verde has been a stable and democratic country ever since. Despite its remote location in the Atlantic Ocean, the country has grown to be relatively prosperous. Since the early days of exploration in the 15^th century, it has been an ideal layover place for ships to replenish and trade.

The country has got a wealth of local produce ranging from coffee and lemongrass over lots exotic fruits (daily fresh juices – check) and even wine. Produce is very limited the since the 2015 volcano eruption destroyed most of the vines.

I’ve always felt very safe when travelling around Cape Verde. The locals are generally friendly and helpful. Expect touts and hassle in the tourist hotspots, but all in all this remains limited.

Planning for Cape Verde

Arrivals at Praia airport is everything you would expect from a smallish African airport – hustle and bustle, touts and taxi drivers approaching you left, right and centre. Cape Verde’s main international airports (Praia and Mindelo) are well connected via Lisbon. You may even find the occasional tourist charter going to Sal. Traveling between the Cape Verde is more complicated and requires upfront planning. These are the main carriers you will need:

• CV Fast Ferry: the operator for ferries between the islands. The company operates a number of catamaran style passenger boats, which are safe and reliable, and a couple of larger ships, mostly for cargo, but also carrying passengers. I don’t have experience taking the ships – I will do so on my September trip. The schedule is published only a month in advance and varies a lot for some of the longer crossings. I.e. the schedule is not repeated on a weekly basis, so making assumptions based on previous months’ schedules is risky.
• Cabo Verde Airlines:the carrier for domestic flights. They are perfectly safe and schedules are generally respected, although bad weather can easily influence. Flights do get booked up, so advance booking is advisable.

If you are planning to book a trip to Cape Verde, check out my other articles with detailed itineraries for the main islands of Cape Verde. If you need help making the plans, Zebra Travel is a local travel agency based out of Fogo. They operate a guesthouse and organise drivers, walking guides and other activities across Cape Verde. In my experience, their people are reliable and safety comes first in the mountains and on the road.

Blend in like a Cape Verde local

Cape Verdean people have many different colours, but if you’re a white traveller, you will stand out and catch attention. Here are some tips for blending in and engaging quickly with the Cape Verde local population.

Speak the language

The official language of Cape Verde is Portuguese and people often speak a mouthful of French they learnt at school. English is not widely spoken and elder generations don’t speak it at all. Learning some basic Portuguese is EXTREMELY helpful. I had some basic knowledge before my first trip to Cape Verde. It was so extremely useful to be able to ask for directions and get around in shops that, prior to my second trip, I enrolled in a refresher course. If you don’t have time for a course, there a several apps that will teach you some vocabulary and phrases;

Prepare for limited connectivity

Utilities are limited and so are internet and telephone connections. I’ve stayed in guesthouses and homestays with generators for limited use or no electricity or running water at all. Remember to charge cameras, battery packs and other items at every occasion and to let the family back home know you’ll likely be off the grid. Due to limited transport links), you will likely need to spend a night or two in the bigger cities. I made sure to book a “real” hotel with wifi and electricity for those nights, to charge my devices and send a few messages home. A local SIM is also a good idea, especially to make short notice arrangements;

Use the “aluguer”

The aluguer or “rental” is the local form of shared transport. The are usually open pick-up trucks with basic seating in the back. They drive around the islands according to a more or less regular schedule and with more or less fixed stops. Once you get your head around the system, they are really easy (and cheap) to use. There will always be an aluguer going to the harbour or airport and the driver always make it there just in time to catch the connection. Although admittedly, I’ve been in stress, on my way to the only flight leaving that week;

ALWAYS ask how long it takes

Cape Verdean is not the same as time anywhere else in the world. When you ask a waiter how long the food takes to arrive or a driver how long the trip is, you’ll likely get a shrug and a vague “20 minutes…”. The reality is, I’ve waited 2 hours for chicken with rice. The locals will smile and tell you to relax and wait. But if you’re halfway through your day’s walk and getting at risk of being out on a trail in the darkness, it is not funny. Ask before you order and make it clear it is important that you leave on time (another reason to learn the lingo).

Stay away from the resorts

A couple of islands (notably Sal and Boa Vista) are popular for beach holidays. You’ll find nice-looking resorts lined up along the main beaches. Don’t go there. They are overpriced, poorly maintained and the services are limited. I’ve stayed in the cutest guesthouses with lovely hosts for a fraction of the price and I felt I was supporting local business rather spending my money on dodgy corporations.

Eat flexibly

Cape Verde is not exactly heaven for those with dietary requirements. Remember people in Cape Verde don’t have much. They waste no food and as such expect you to eat whatever is served. Usually, food comes in multiple trays (veg, meat, rice). This means you can chose not to take certain things (and for example skip mean). Expect to lots of fish, grilled vegetables and rich soups (cachupa). The homemade meals in our guesthouses were always delicious and surprising. The only time I’ve had stomach issues was after eating a dodgy fish in an established and reputable restaurant.

Local accommodation tips

• Casa Colonial (Fogo): a lovely old house owned by a Swedish – Cape Verdean couple. They have beautiful rooms and a swimming pool. When we were there, they had recently suffered from storm damage so food and utilities were limited. Nonetheless our stay was excellent.
• Kasa Tambla (Ponta do Sol, Santo Antão): Ponta do Sol is a popular place to stay and there are several options for accommodation. I thought B&B Kasa Tambla was excellent. They don’t offer lunch or dinner, but Ponta do Sol is a lively place where you have some options.
• Casa das Ilhas (Ribeira de Paul, Santo Antão): this lovely guesthouse ran by a Belgian lady is located in a somewhat remote location in Ribeira de Paul. It’s a lovely retreat. The owner will help you organise transport and advise on walks on the island. She runs a small pre-school on the site as well. Second-hand items for the children will be very much welcomed (clothing, pencils, colouring books,…).
• Bela Sombra (São Nicolau): small family owned travel agency annex guesthouse. Grandma runs the kitchen and her son arranges the practicalities. They will serve lovely homemade food. Rooms are clean and cosy.
• Hotel Santiago (Praia, Santiago): a basic, regular hotel. It lacks character, but is perfect if you need to spend a night in Praia for a layover. You can get a hot shower, electricity and an internet connection. Staff are efficient and will help you organise airport transfers and other practicalities.