When arranging a tour around Puglia, I somehow did not expect this to be featured extensively in my Complete Guide to Unesco World Heritage sites which I picked up in a local bookstore. I was imagining a vast, dry country filled with vineyards and olive groves. I had to somewhat mistreat the book to find what I was after – the heel of the Italian boot is hidden in the binding between the left and right-hand page. How surprised was I to find out that no less than three world heritage sites are present in this forgotten corner Italy.
The Salento coast, the southern stretch on the Adriatic Sea, is a popular destination for Italian and foreign tourists alike. The ports of both Bari and Brindisi are on the itinerary of many a cruise liner. But the hinterland is well off the beaten track. Join me on a bike tour of Puglia’s world heritage sites – I promise this will be your next holiday sorted.
Castel del Monte
Despite what the name and shape might suggest, Castel del Monte was not built as a military site. We approached the citadel-like construction on the bike, climbing from sea level up to roughly 540m in the late-summer heat. It was late on the day and most visitors had already left. We opted to go around on our own, although regular guides tours are on offer. The high walls and the rigid octagon share are almost threatening and it is hard to believe that this building was merely a hunting retreat.
The interior was rather empty and despite the mathematical precision with which the building was built I lost orientation quickly. I was most impressed by the exterior of the building and by the breath-taking views of the area when walking the path surrounding the building. The sky darkened and a thunderstorm kicked in, adding drama to the scene. I tried not to think of the 20km we had left to cycle before reaching our destination for the day as I watched lightning strike in the distance.
The Sassi and the park of the rupestrian churches of Matera
Although Puglia is relatively flat, there seems to be a theme going on that involves cycling up a massive hill before getting to the prize sites to visit. Although strictly speaking, Matera is not in Puglia. It is just across the border in the province of Basilicata. But this is not a reason to skip a visit of the sassi. These ancient homes, Italian for “stones”, are cave dwellings dating back to 7000 BC. Amazingly, people still inhabit them today!
We were lucky to spend two nights in Corte San Pietro, a lovely boutique hotel providing accommodation in authentic sassi. This gave us ample time to wander around the town and visit the beautiful rupestrian churches. Furthermore, we took a hike on the plateau at the other side of the canyon that borders Matera. Apart from providing great views, this allowed us to discover what the habitations looked like in the ancient times. Caves are dotted across the land and we felt like true explorers as we climbed up and down.
However, the history of Matera is not entirely one of romance. Malaria affected inhabitants of the cave dwellings in the 1950s, triggered by the appalling living conditions. Authorities made a (failed) attempt to move people to new, artificially built neighbourhoods.
The Trulli of Alberobello
Building on the theme of vintage housing, let’s move on to Alberobello. This is the town of the trulli, circular houses made of drystone featuring a round, pointed roof. You can spot them in the countryside all over the region, but Alberobello is the only town where these exceptional habitations are the norm. I could not help but having recollections of childhood stories featuring dwarfs and trolls as I contemplate the line-up of trulli rooftops.
A top tip for visitors is to arrive in the late afternoon when day visitors start to leave. You will have the opportunity to take some quiet sunset shots and wander around the village. Stay the night in a trullo (we opted for Le Alcove, located just outside the main centre) and rise early to admire the town by sunrise. Then scoot to your next destination before tour groups reach the main square.
The Mediterranean diet
The Mediterranean diet does not feature among the historic UNESCO world heritage sites in Puglia. However, it would be rude to overlook the intangible heritage of the province. So how did a mixture of fruit, vegetables and fish, combined with a generous splash of olive oil make it to the world heritage list? The combination of sustainable, local produce with traditional techniques topped with the social setting of communal meals convinced UNESCO that the Mediterranean diet merits preservation.
I can’t say that I didn’t enjoy every bite of the food I had in Puglia. From the fresh ricotta cheese at breakfast to the orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta) with mushrooms at dinner – food was delicious. Even more so paired with a nice glass of local wine. Not to mention my little indulgence: crispy bread dipped into some olive oil. I know that this makes locals cringe and it is totally against the rules of Italian cuisine. But hey, they’ve got the best bread and the most tasteful olive oil so why not throw them together?
What else to see in Puglia?
Now what if you’re not so bothered by world heritage sites in Puglia? Still put this destination with a star on your list! I could write a book about the beauty of the savage coastline with its caves and the white villages emerging against hillsides. You’ll find peace in the narrow, deserted streets with a church on almost every corner. The remote masserias, old family-run farmhouses provide excellent accommodation and often produce their own wine and olive oil.
Make sure to include in your journey plan a visit to the Altamura Man (or rather the site and museum, the actual Man cannot be visited). This is a fossil Neanderthal skeleton discovered in a sinkhole. Finally, stop at the massive cave system of Castellana Grotte for an exciting underground walk.
Checklistmania?
I’m a bit of a sucker for checklists. So when I came across the Complete Guide to Unesco World Heritage sites, I did not hesitate. The book mostly live on my shelf, I pick it up every now and then to bring back memories of places I have been or to check new destinations on my plan.
Just in case you are, like me, a bit of a sucker for checklist, visit tripbucket.com (or better, download the app). This allows you create the line-up World Heritage Sites for your next holiday, as well as your bucket list and your palmares. It covers not only world heritage sites, but also a variety of other items like national parks, safari destinations and more.
