Deep in Eastern Germany and just 50 kilometers from Dresden lies Saxon Switzerland (Sächsische Schweiz). The region owes its name to the wonderful sandstone rock formations that line the moody pine forest and make a perfect backdrop for adventurous hikes. Local tourism aside, Saxon Switzerland has remained rather off the beaten track. Most foreigners who visit the area, come with a specific purpose: a trip to Bastei Bridge. This stone bridge connecting steep rock towers is so unusual that it almost looks unreal.
You can visit Bastei Bridge as part of a longer holiday in Saxony OR you can plan a day trip on the back of a city break in Dresden. This landmark is a great starting point for some challenging hikes, but it’s equally accessible if you’re looking for an easy, leisurely day out. I’ve summarised my top tips for planning a perfect trip to the Bastei Bridge from Dresden AND suggestions to extend your stay in Saxon Switzerland!
What is the Bastei?
Bastei means “bastion”. The name refers to the steep, inaccessible sandstone rocks, 200m above the River Elbe, that surround the 18th century rock castle “Neurathen”. A first, wooden, bridge dates from the 19th century. It’s unclear whether this was primarily an access bridge to the castle or a way for people to see the rock formations (early tourist infrastructure, essentially).
The picturesque stone bridge was built in 1851. It quickly attracted numerous tourists and landscape painters. Today, the Bastei Bridge remains the best-known attraction in the region, but it would be a shame not to venture along the hiking trails to see the rock formations, sweeping Elbe views and Saxon villages from different angles.
Planning your trip to the Bastei
When going to the Bastei, bear in mind you’re heading to the mountains. Albeit with an elevation of “only” 200 – 300m, many of the trails are challenging and require a head for hights. Sturdy hiking boots are a must.
Packing enough water and food for the day is advisable. The hike to Bastei Bridge starts in a small village and also near the car park you’ll find some stalls that sell (pricey) snacks. But services close early in the region (we struggled to find a place for dinner at 2000 or groceries on a Sunday) and outside the peak season most shut completely.
The National park itself does not have opening hours and is accessible all year round. It’s worth getting up early to beat the crowds or hanging around for sunset. That is, provided you are equipped to walk back safely after dusk. I visited in summer, which was nice because of the lush colours and pleasant temperatures. But I think Autumn is probably the best season – as the leaves fall views are even better and the moody landscape would look amazing when covered in autumn colours. Winters are harsh and in Spring (as the snow melts) trails can become inaccessible and dangerous.
How to get to Bastei Bridge?
You can make a trip to Bastei Bridge by public transport or by car. Whichever option you choose, plan to arrive at the Bastei Bridge early to beat the crowds. I mean, really early. We got there by 0900 and it was busy. When we left around 1100, it was packed.
It’s also possible to visit Bastei Bridge on a day trip from other cities such as Leipzig or Berlin. But bear in mind that you always have to travel via Dresden, so these will be very long days.
Public transport from Dresden
Public transport in Germany is excellent and my recommended method for a visit to Bastei Bridge from Dresden. I used trains and buses to get around everywhere in the region and found them to be reliable and comfortable.
From Dresden (any station), take a suburban train to Kurort Rathen. Trains are direct and regular and take under an hour. Check the schedule on the German railways’ website. There is no need to book the train in advance. Unlike the German long-distance trains, prices of the suburban are always the same and advance booking doesn’t add any benefit.
In Kurort Rathen, the train station is right next to the River Elbe. At the wrong side. You need to take a ferry to take you across to get to the starting point of the walk. The ferry takes 5 minutes and it travels back and forth all day. You pay a couple of euros for a ticket. If you have a hotel reservation, you can hop on for free.
Car from Dresden
If you want the flexibility of your own transport, a car is an option. If you don’t have a car, consider renting one via Sunny Cars, who offer all-in formulas. With the car, you can drive straight to Bastei bridge and use the car park (payable). You can still do the walk and cover the viewpoints I outlined below, but the order will be different.
Kurort Rathen is a small village that is not suitable for cars. If you want to start the walk in the village or drive there for a bite to eat, you will be required to park outside the village and walk down the road.
Alternative options: bike or boat
These are not suitable for day trips, but fun options if you’re willing to spend a few days or a long weekend. An easy cycling path runs along the Elbe river from Dresden to Kurort Rathen (and beyond). Getting to Kurort Rathen will take you a full day. My recommendation is to take 2 days, visit Schloss Pillnitz and stop for the night in the pretty town of Pirna. Lots of companies organise cycle hire and luggage transport. We used Bag & Bike for luggage transport during our hikes and were very happy. It’s possible to return by train and take the bike with you at a small extra cost.
Various hop-on hop-off boats call at the villages along the River Elbe. They’re a slow way of travel and timetables are a bit restricted, but you get a leisurely journey with nice views.
Finding the best viewpoints
You can head straight to Bastei Bridge, take a few photos and leave. Or you can plan for a longer hike that will take you along some beautiful viewpoints of the Bastei rock formations. Here’s an outline for a walk starting in Kurort Rathen that covers the highlights.
As you come off the ferry, walk up the (only) road. Soon you will see a sign pointing left to “Bastei”. From here, follow the Basteiweg and keep left (close to the Elbe) as to not miss out on any of the first viewpoints over the river. There are 3 viewpoints (each with a small detour) before you reach Felsenburg Neurathen. Not much remains from this 18th century fortress, but the entry fee is low (2 euros) and you get amazing views over the bridge and the valley.
After visiting the fortress, you actually cross the Bastei Bridge and join a paved path leading to the car park and visitors area. Here you can buy some (pricey) snacks and souvenirs. There is also a hotel. It’s supposedly high-end. I considered it for an early lunch, but decided it just doesn’t look very attractive.
After the hotel, but before you reach the actual car park, a hiking path starts on the right side of the road. Check out the Wehlsteinaussicht right in front of you and then follow the easy path to the Pavilionssaussicht. Both give sweeping valley views, but also good views of Bastei Bridge (arguably the best).
At this point you can simply turn back or, if you’re up for a more challenging hike, descent into the Schwedenlöcher. This is a rocky hiking path down a forest and gorge where you should be prepared to use your hands to maintain your balance!
When you exit Schwedenlöcher, follow the easy path along the picturesque Amselsee and back to Kurort Rathen. If you started early, you’ll be back in the early afternoon and have time for an ice cream before heading back to the station. A more leisurely way to return to Dresden is with a slow boat on the River Elbe.
Other things to do in the Bastei
If you want to hike more, there are options to extend the walk or spend more time in the area. If you’re planning to spend multiple days in the Bastei or other areas of Saxon Switzerland, it’s worth buying a trail map (I used this one).
Here are a few places not to miss that you can visit from Kurort Rathen:
- Hohnstein: a walk to Hohnstein is a great extension of your day around Bastei Bridge. The trail starts near Amselsee. At first an easy forest track, it also includes challenging rocky sections. Hohnstein is a pretty village with a fort and a few places to enjoy a drink;
- Lilienstein: this is an example of the distinctive, table-like mounts that are typical of Saxon Switzerland. A round trip to the Lilienstein, including the ascent, makes a good day out from Kurort Rathen. There are some steep, rocky sections, but the path is generally easy;
- Schloss Königstein: opposite the Lilienstein, on the other side of the river, lies a similar mount: Königstein. There is a well-preserved fortress on top of it. We almost didn’t visit, because the entry price is quite steep (12 euros), but it’s actually worth is. The best way to get there by foot is via the hiking path next to the Elbe, taking the ferry at Königstein. You can also cross in Bad Schandau, but you’ll be walking next to a busy road a lot of the time.
