Today I chucked out my last (empty) bottle of shampoo, hopefully ever. Over the years I’ve gone through various stages of detoxing my hair and figuring out what products are kindest to it. Last summer, I decided to see if I could go completely shampoo free and ban all traditional haircare products. This journey was going to be a massive change from the traditional haircare routine I’d grown up with.
We’re six months down the road now and I haven’t used a traditional hair product since. My hair feels healthier, cleaner and has got a lot more shine. It’s so clearly visible that several family members have also made the switch. What’s even better, my hair isn’t the only beneficiary of my no-poo lifestyle. I generate no more waste from empty product bottles (great for the planet!) and my initial purchase of shampoo bars is still lasting (great for my wallet!).
Benefits of going shampoo-free
Kind to your hair & scalp
Once you start examining the ingredients list on shampoo and conditioner bottles, you’ll realise that haircare products contain LOADS of bad chemicals. They all have different properties, but have one thing in common: they strip your hair of the natural oils and block your scalp from producing them. This means your hair will and scalp will cry out for these oils and you’ll respond by using more shampoo, more often. Your hair will also start to feel dirty quickly, because it isn’t getting the natural oils it needs to cleanse itself.
By going no-poo, you’ll break this circle and allow for the natural processes to resume. You’ll also stop exposing your hair and skin to the following products (just to name a few):
- Sulphates: take over the cleansing properties of the natural oils and remove dirt from the hair;
- Sodium (also referred to as sodium lauryl sulphate or SLS): strip the scalp of natural oils, leaving your pores exposed to bacteria and dirt;
- Paraben: effectively the preservative for shampoo. Even traditional shampoos are starting to avoid these now as studies show they can disturb hormones;
- Alcohol: removes grease from the hair, but also leaves it dry and brittle, leading it to break more easily;
- Silicone: adds a protective layer to the hair to counterbalance the effect of the above. It will build up and create an oily film on your hair over time.
Kind to the environment
By using natural haircare products, you will remove a chunk of non-biodegradable waste from your routine. Remember the chemicals I listed above! Moreover, natural alternatives are usually offered by conscious brands in zero-waste (or at a minimum plastic free) packaging. As a bonus, they’re often vegan too!
Kind to your wallet
Haircare products are expensive. By going shampoo free, you’ll use a lot less products in much lower quantities. You’ll also come across brands that focus on long-lasting products that only require you to use a small amount, in line with their eco-friendly image. Whether you go fully no poo or you just critically revisit the products you use, you will end up spending less.
Milestones on my shampoo-free journey
Until I was 14, I’d only had short, tomboy haircuts. My dad had this idée fixe that long hair is dirty, especially on children, and banned me from growing mine. The haircare routine I was taught at home involved washing my hair with shampoo twice, followed by a wash with conditioner, ending with a lotion. To be repeated twice a week.
As a teenager, I firmly decided I wanted long, girly hair. That was the beginning of countless cycles of growing my hair, frustration with the slow pace and reverting back to an edgy short haircut. Adding to my routine extensive amounts of hairspray and gel.
It wasn’t until I was at uni, that I could make the cute braids, buns and ponytails I’d been dreaming off. To care for my new long hair, I started to wash it almost daily and explore different products and routines. This mostly meant increasing the number of products and turning to more expensive brands.
Thankfully I’ve since learnt a lot about what is really good for my hair and what isn’t. I’ve now completely stopped using traditional products and massively reduced the amount of time I was my hair. Not only it feels so much better, it’s also good for my wallet and the environment. These were the key milestones on my shampoo-free journey:
Changing my perspective with a detox
When I was at university, I stumbled on an article about hair detox in a magazine. Refraining from washing your hair for three weeks, would allegedly lead to a complete revival and leave you with healthy, shiny locks. I was about to finish my degree and go on a holiday. So this was my chance to try the detox and make sure few people would notice my dirty hair. This was the very first step on my shampoo free journey!
The detox had limited success, but it had sparked my interest in researching haircare products and figuring out what was right for my hair.
Scrutinising my use of products & brands
Despite my research, my hair had an oily film to it for several years, owing to the excess of products. It looked clean and smelled nice, but my scalp was dry and itchy. Moreover, my hair would hardly dry after washing and feel moist and oily. I knew it wasn’t right, but didn’t do anything about it until my hairdresser pointed it out. She recommended replacing my conditioner by a light spray conditioner as conditioners create an artificial film on the hair. She also recommended a more targeted shampoo and indicated the right amount of product to use (I was using way too much!).
Despite the positive difference this made, I still wasn’t satisfied. The oily feeling reduced, but my scalp remained dry and itchy. Moreover, my hair was super hard to coomb and the knots forced me to damage it.
Exploring realistic alternatives that work
I bought my first shampoo bar two years ago after seeing them on social media. I was travelling a lot and looking out for packing and cabin bag hacks. Shampoo bars seemed like a convenient travel product and I like the eco-friendly, no waste aspect. Turned out I liked them and I got used to washing my hair with shampoo bars and a minimum of other products. I first ditched conditioner, then reduced the frequency of washing and stopped purchasing traditional haircare products. My hair started to feel a lot better quickly. It felt lighter and dried more easily and it has a lot more texture too.
During the 2020 pandemic, I decided to take the jump and switch for good. Knowing that it could take up to 6 weeks for my hair and scalp to adjust, this period of working from home was just the push I needed to switch. For me, it was fairly easy, because my use of traditional products was already limited. Meanwhile, my husband and dad have also switched. They found it more difficult, but are now pleased with the result. My husband says his hair feels cleaner for longer and my dad no longer suffers from an itchy, dry scalp.
I also tried other natural alternatives (see below!). However, I still find the ready-made shampoo bars much more efficient and quicker.
Best non-toxic alternatives to traditional shampoo
Shampoo bars
If you decide to quite traditional haircare products, switching to shampoo bars is the most accessible way to get started. This is also known a “low poo”, because you’re still using a form of shampoo. But it’s based on natural ingredients and without the additives that damage your hair, scalp and the environment.
The first ever shampoo bar I bought was a coconut & shea butter bar by Faith In Nature. When I first looked for shampoo bars in 2019, this was literally the only shop where I could find that was affordable and delivered fast. As a first-time user I didn’t want to spend a lot of money. Also, I wanted to take it with me on an imminent holiday so getting it quickly was a must. I liked it and still use the coconut and shea butter shampoo bar. It’s also the most affordable one I’ve found! It’s my husband’s favourite because it’s white (unlike some of the vibrant colours many other brands have!).
Another favourite is Soap ‘n Scent available via Shared Earth. I discovered this brand accidentally via Instagram. I don’t often jump onto ads, but this time I did and wasn’t disappointed. They have some lovely natural and unusual smells such as cedarwood.
Keeping the best for the last, my ultimate favourite solid shampoo are the Happy Soaps bars. This cute Dutch brand does a lot of scents and types in vibrant colours. The soaps are solid and almost seem never-ending, yet they feel soft and smooth.
Lots of brands now start doing “conditioning bars” too. I wasn’t blown away by the (only) one I tried. It didn’t add any value in my opinion and it kind of defeats the purpose of cutting back on products.
DIY hair cleansing products
If you want to drop even the shampoo bars and go completely no-poo, here are some options that you might have right in your kitchen! I don’t consistently use the no-poo alternatives, because it’s needs more preparation and I’m usually in a hurry when I shower. Instead, I use one of these every 2 – 3 weeks when I feel like my hair needs some extra care.
Apple cider vinegar
This is probably the most popular shampoo alternative you’ll read about. Mix 2 spoonfuls with a cup of water and slowly pour it over your head whilst massaging. It’s great to remove grease and dirt.
Regular white vinegar will work too, using the same method. It doesn’t smell as nice, but soaking some herbs together with the vinegar and water will easily resolve this. Good easy options are lavender, chamomile or calendula, but kitchen herbs such are rosemary or thyme are great too.
Coconut oil
Coconut oil is a great natural alternative to lots of things. I use it as mosquito repellent, make-up remover and to hydrate my skin. Supposedly it stimulates hair growth. I’ve not noticed that, admittedly, but it does leave my hair feeling soft and hydrated. Apply the coconut oil to your hair as a conditioner and let it soak for at least 10 minutes. You can also apply it to dry hair some time before you shower to allow for longer soaking.
Olive oil
Olive oil adds shine and makes your hair easy to comb. Use it in the same way as coconut oil, as a conditioner or mask. It’s of course runnier and might get messy when you use it before stepping into the shower.
Tea
Make your hair a nice cup of (black) tea! It’s great for to hydrate your scalp and get the blood flow going. You can replace black tea by infusions such as thyme or mint or combine them. Let the tea cool down before using it and don’t pour the hot brew over your head.
Lemon juice
It’s cheap and everybody usually has it handy. This one is not for me though, since lemon not only cleans, but also bleaches your hair. It won’t have a massive effect, but I like to keep my hair dark! It’s definitely a great option if you have naturally blonde or light hair. Mix 2 spoonfuls with a cup of water and slowly pour it over your head whilst massaging.
Baking soda
Baking soda, dissolved in some water until only tiny crystals are left, is a great cleanser and exfoliator. It’s lovely to massage your scalp! Like lemon, it also has bleaching properties, making it less attractive for me.
Just rinse with water
This is also a perfect option to get clean hair. You don’t actually need any products! I do find my hair is less easy to comb when I just use water, so I prefer not to do this for a longer period of time.
Small steps to going shampoo-free
If you’re not convinced about going low poo or no poo just yet, you can make changes in to your haircare routine by applying the “less is more” philosophy:
- Avoid washing your hair daily or even every other day. Before switching to shampoo bars, I had already reduced my hair-washing frequency from 3 – 4 to max 2 times per week. Since going shampoo- free, I even reduced that to once per week because that’s all my hair needs.
- Challenge the products you use. At the peak of my product usage, I would use a shampoo, restorative mask, conditioner and detangling spray at every wash. After my hairdresser triggered me, I shifted to using one carefully selected shampoo and ditching the rest. Some traditional shampoos have “free from” formulas that are a great step to being kinder to your hair and scalp.
- Divide it in two. We all tend to use too much product, whether it’s shampoo, conditioner or other skincare products. Divide your usual amount of shampoo in two and see if your hair still feels clean (chance are it will!). If you’re happy with the result, divide the amount of product in two again the next time.
- Plan “no poo” periods. Your scalp will need 4 – 6 weeks to adjust to the absence of shampoo as the production of natural oils revives. You may not want to go into work with greasy hair for several weeks, but you can pick periods, during a holiday or when homeworking, to you let your scalp detox for a couple of weeks to prepare for the switch.
