Lisbon is a town that feels strangely familiar to me. I have at only two occasions spent more than 48 hours in the city. Furthermore, Lisbon has also been a frequent one-day stopover as the layover or starting point for other trips. Despite my clunky Portuguese, the sound of the casual greeting “tod’ bom?” and friendly chats with locals, make me feel at home quickly. One could spend a year living in Lisbon and still discover new places every day. If your time however is limited, 48 hours make for an excellent short break for exploring Lisbon’s top sights.
My favourite accommodation is 262 Boutique Hotel. It sits conveniently near transport hub Cais do Sodré and at walking distance from the old town and many of my top sights. When I first booked, I didn’t know that the street, Rua Nova do Carvalho, has become insta-famous as “the pink street”. During daytime, it’s very quiet. At night it is a party street (don’t worry if you are not a party goer – the hotel is quiet). 262 Boutique Hotel is an excellent base to get around town or to get away from the city if you want to make day trips. As a bonus, 262 Boutique Hotel has an excellent seafood restaurant. I think it’s great to have nice food on the doorstep after a busy day. On our most recent trip, my Mum and I ate there every night.
DAY 1: WALK AROUND ALFAMA
The best way to explore Lisbon’s top sights is on foot. So take a pair of comfy shoes and head into the labyrinth of narrow streets of the old town, Alfama. Additionally, Lisbon extends over seven hills, so expect a lot of up and down. Lisbon is a safe city – it’s ok to get lost. There is no “ultimate itinerary” to get around the old town. Much of the charm of the city comes from exploring the streets, taking in the views and sitting down for a “bica” (coffee) in a tiny café. Here is my selection of Lisbon’s top sights to stop and explore. You can pick and chose to your liking!
Whether or not you plan on exploring all of Lisbon’s top sights on foot, it is a good idea to get a Viva Viagem card. This is the quickest and easiest way to pay for all means of public transport, not just in the inner city, but also if you go a bit further out. You can buy the card at the airport, top it up with the amount of money you initially expect to need and off you go. At 1.50 euros for a ride on the metro, public transport in Lisbon is very affordable.
CASTLE & CONVENT: MAGNIFICENT MUST-SEE BUILDINGS
If you are looking to cover the main highlights in the historic centre, here is your starting point. Castelo de São Jorge is a magnificent building that can be seen from most places around the city. The first fortifications date back as far as the first century. The castle as it now stands, however, dates from the 12th century, when Lisbon became the capital of Portugal and the governor took residence in the fortified castle.
The second big highlight is the Igreja e Convento da Graça. The Baroque church and convent are packed with tiled walls, woodwork and paintings. I remember visiting on a hot day and being relieved that I could spend a couple of hours between the cool walls of the former convent. The convent only opened to the public in 2017, shortly before my visit, so it felt quite memorable.
CHURCHES GALORE: SAY A PRAYER IN EVERY STREET
With 85% of the Portuguese population identifying as Catholic, it is no surprise that you’ll stumble on a church in pretty much every street of Lisbon.
- Sé de Lisboa aka Lisbon Cathedral: this Romanesque church with later Gothic elements is usually referred to as “Sé”. Dating from the 12th century, the building has survived destruction, natural disasters and several building cycles. It is a lot smaller than you would expect from a cathedral and tucked away amongst small houses;
- Igreja de Santa Engrácia aka National Pantheon: this church is much more impressive the cathedral and stands out in the skyline of the city (it makes a great viewpoint too!). The church was finalised in the 17th century and later converted to national Pantheon, i.e. burial place for important Portuguese personalities;
- Basilica da Estrela: getting to the basilica means a longer walk compared to the other churches in the heart of the centre. It is located on a busy boulevard and at fist sight perhaps not greatly attractive. However, the giant dome and twin bell towers are special and the interior is exquisite;
- Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Encarnação: close to Cais do Sodre and Lisbon’s main shopping streets, Nossa Senhora da Encarnação does not look very special. But once you enter, you will change your mind. Take a good look at the decorated roof and walls, but also look out for the presépio to your right when you enter. This elaborate Nativity scene is contains dozens of beautifully carved figures.
MIRADOUROS: BEST VIEWPOINTS OVER TOWN
As you’d expect from a city built on seven hills, great miradouros or viewpoints can be found all over Lisbon. I have listed the best ones here, but remember that you will also get sweeping views when visiting landmarks such as the Castelo de São Jorge or the Pantheon.
- Miradouro de Santa Luzia: the most famous and popular of the viewpoints is located in the heart of the old town, next to the church with the same name. You’ll find a great view over the river and the red roofs of the old town. Best enjoyed when the sun is out;
- Miradouro da Graça: this one is a bit further away from the historic centre (and a requires a bit more uphill walking!), but the view is worth it. The viewpoint is located on a spacious square where you can enjoy and ice cream or drink;
- Miradouro de Santa Catarina: if you ask locals for directions to Miradouro de Santa Catarina, they will likely not know it. They will however be able to point you to Adamastor, a mythical figure from Portuguese literature whose statue towers over the viewpoint. A short (but steep walk) from Cais do Sodre will take you to this insider spot, perfect for watching the sun go down.
If you are looking for something a bit different, head to the Amoreiras shopping centre. Not in first place for the retail shop, but for the 360˚ Panoramic View over Lisbon from the top of the building. At 5 euros per person, tickets are affordable. I recommend going late on the day to enjoy the sunset and lights of the city. Additionally, the shopping centre offers countless opportunities for dinner afterwards.
DAY 2: VENTURE TO BELEM & ALMADA
Lisbon is an easy city to get around with many nice neighborhoods to stay. In my view, staying near Cais do Sodre is a real advantage. There are frequent trams to Belém and back as well as ferries taking passengers across the River Tagus to Almada.
GAZE AT THE ICONIC TORRE DE BELEM
A good start of any visit to Belém is a walk from the main station to the Torre de Belém. It is possible to enter this former fortress and trade post, but I didn’t bother and just enjoyed the view from outside. Along the waterfront, there are several other points of interest. Notably the lighthouse and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, a modern-day monument to celebrate the Portuguese Age of Discoveries, are worth a stop.
DON’T MISS MOSTEIRO DOS JERONIMOS
If you are only going to see one thing in Belém, go to the Mosteiro do Jerónimos. The 15th century church, extended with a monastery is not only a gorgeous building. It is also the burial site of a suite of Portuguese heroes and poets such as Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões.
TAKE THE FERRY TO CRISTO REI
After seeing the sights of Belém, it is time to cross the River Tagus. The area is mostly residential, but one site it particularly worth visiting: the Chapel of our Lady of Peace, commonly known as Cristo Rei. The 110-meter-tall statue on the site is visibly inspired on Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer. The sanctuary dates from the 1950s. It was an expression of gratitude from the city of Lisbon for having escaped the worst destruction of the Second World War. The chapel (free of entry) is very simplistic. The main attraction however is the viewing platform at 80 metres high where you can enjoy sweeping views over the city (just 5 euros to go up). If you do spend the day in Belém, you will be just in time to enjoy the views in the evening light.
Getting there on the ferry is half the fun. Once again, a Viva Viagem card will make the payment very easy. If you are up for a walk on the other side of the river, you can catch the ferry from Belém to Porto Brandão. The easier way though is to take the tram back to Cais do Sodre. There you can hop on the ferry to Cacilhas, which is much nicer. You will find eateries, a tall ship and even an old submarine to look at. The walk to Cristo Rei takes close to an hour (more than I had expected). Taking bus 101 just outside the ferry terminal will cut the time.
DAY 3: HIGHLIGHTS OF BAIXA
My Mum and I opted for mid-afternoon flights on our trips to Lisbon, allowing us to take in some small final sights in the Baixa district before heading back to the airport. In Baixa, near the Old Town and Cais do Sodre, you will also find the main shopping streets of Lisbon – perfect for last minute souvenirs or a little something for yourself.
GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY: WHERE PORTUGAL’S EXPLORERS LIVE ON
I have waited for three years to visit the Geographical Society based in Lisbon which has long been closed for renovation. Founded in the mid-19th century, in the heat of the European “scramble for Africa” the Society and its museum are somewhat controversial nowadays. The collection covers maps and artifacts from the former Portuguese colonies. Having travelled to some of the places, I was interested to see the collection and understand the history behind the Portuguese expeditions. As part of the visit, we were taken on a tour by a knowledgeable member of staff (mandatory). Good information about how to visit the Society is hard to find. We went in the morning, bought a ticket for a small fee and were taken on a private tour.
CONVENTO DO CARMO: NOT JUST ANOTHER CHURCH
Convento do Carmo is a former church and convent of which only ruins remain today. Notably, the Gothic façade and walls can still be seen, and visitors can wander through them. At the time of its construction in the 14th century, it was one of the most important churches of Lisbon, competing with the cathedral (Sé de Lisboa). The church and convent were destroyed in the infamous Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. Despite attempts to rebuild the Convento do Carmo, the churched never regained its old glory. If you are planning to visit the Convento do Carmo, go early (we arrived at the gate when it opened). This is not an offbeat sight, but one that attracts many tourists. Nonetheless, wandering around the Gothic walls on a quiet, chilly morning is an eerie experience.
RIDE LISBON’S ELEVATORS AND FUNICULARS
I mentioned earlier that Lisbon was built on seven hills. With many streets having an incline of more than 10%, an elevator here and there is hardly a luxury for exploring Lisbon’s top sights. There are a few 19th century beauties that make for a fun ride. I personally preferred looking at them than riding in them, but they are iconic sights of Lisbon that you shouldn’t miss. They do get very busy (you might have to queue). The fee for each of them is the normal price of a tram ticket (1.5 euros). You can pay with the Viva Viagem card.
- Elevador Santa Justa: takes passengers from the shopping district in Baixa to Largo do Carmo, the square near the ruined church;
- Ascensor da Bica: one-carriage funicular taking passengers from Largo do Calhariz to Rua de São Paulo;
- Ascensor da Glória: funicular connecting Rua de São Paulo with Calçada do Combro/Rua do Loreto;
- Finally, Ascensor da Lavra: the first of Lisbon’s funiculars is far less touristy despite its central location. It takes passengers from Rua das Portas de Santo Antão to Calçada do Lavra. A lovely view over Baixa awaits.
EXTENDING YOUR STAY IN LISBON?
48 hours will give you a good first impression, but is not nearly enough for exploring all of Lisbon’s top sights and enjoying the city to the fullest. Here are some options for extending your stay in Lisbon:
- Sintra: take trip to Sintra and visit the wealth of UNESCO listed, Romanticist-style palaces and mansions dotted around the hills. Frequent, cheap trains from Rossio and Oriente stations get you there in under and hour;
- Palacio Nacional de Queluz: the Sintra trains also call at Queluz, situated at 30 minutes from Lisbon. Visiting the beautiful 18th century royal residence and gardens makes and excellent half day trip;
- Cascais: this pretty, coastal resort boasts a medieval town centre. It is also the home of the Santa Marta Lighthouse. Frequent, cheap trains from Cais do Sodre take you there in an hour. There is a lot to explore in Cascais, so spending the night is even better.
