My first trip to India was a work trip in the summer of 2016. I was going to spend a week in our Chennai office and wasn’t jumping up and down in joy. Chennai is a hot, dry place that lacks the big sights of Delhi and Mumbai. Moreover, my knowledge of India at that time was relatively limited. News coverage about the country presented violence against women and gang rape as part of daily life and my company imposed rated strict security measures for staff traveling to India.
We’re two years later at the time of writing, I lost count of the number of trips to Chennai I made and my experience travelling around the country is extensive, positive and still growing. I’ve discovered that Chennai has a lot to offer. It’s the ideal place for getting a taste of the traditional South Indian culture and food, options for day trips from the city are abundant and shopping is great. It’s also the perfect gateway into Kerala and the deep South. So, if your next destination is India, don’t forget to add this gem to your list and keep on reading for my top tips.
FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER & VIBES
The South Indian food is absolutely delicious and in the two years I have been travelling to Chennai, I have seen lots of excellent new eateries popping up. So what is a better way to start 48 hours in Chennai than with a nice dinner? For me, it is the perfect way to unwind after a busy week in the office, but equally if you have just touched down to start your holiday, food is an excellent way to commence your stay.
Here are a few options I love:
- Head to Elliot’s Beach, which is always buzzing on Friday evenings. There is a nice promenade along the beach, lined with stalls, street vendors and entertainment. You can have a weigh-in on the scales for just 2 rupees or admire the items for sale at the fish market. When you get hungry, stop at Murugan Idli Shop at the Southern end of the beach. This cheap and cheerful restaurant is part of a small chain. It doesn’t provide a menu, but just serves the one daily option to all customers. All food is vegetarian and the idlis (savoury rice cakes) are the best in town. Don’t be put off by the queue at the door – it moves fast;
- If you want a good sizeable dinner in a casual setting and have more options to choose from, opt for BBQ Nation. This all-you-can eat restaurant with branches in most parts of town is highly popular with Indian families and groups and is a good way to try lots of different things. They have a range of “starters” which are served at the table, followed by a range of “hot meals” which are self-service. I usually don’t make it to the hot meals, because the starters are super nice and they keep coming at high pace (and admittedly I do prefer to be waited when having dinner outside!);
- A fancier alternative, is Azzuri Bay in the Gandhi Nagar neighbourhood. This shady rooftop restaurant is located in a quiet street and provides a nice oasis to spend an evening, especially when the weather is hot. The mostly pan-asian menu is varied (and fairly spicy!), but funny enough the specialty of the house is freshly baked pizza (with Indian toppings). The restaurant is usually filled with couples or smaller groups, but finding a table on spec shouldn’t be a problem;
- Located in the Mylapore area is Copper Chimney. This is actually a small chain with branches in several Indian cities (and even abroad), but this is the only one I have actually tried. The menu is varied and traditionally Indian. The portions are large and I usually chose to share so I can try more different things. This is a great option if you want to sample Indian food in a more authentic and quieter setting than the many all-you-can-eat option the locals love.
Bear in mind that most of these places don’t sell alcohol (Copper Chimney does) as is usually the case in Tamil Nadu.
DISCOVERING THE CITY CENTRE
Over time I have spent several leisurely days discovering Chennai. Here are my favorite places brought together for a day in the city centre. Mind you – this is a big day so you will need to get up early! I try to get around by foot as much as I can, but there is always an autorickshaw nearby to take you for a ride if you want it (note that the “foreigner rate” quoted by the drivers is usually around three times the going rate, so bargain hard). For crossing from one side of the city to another quickly and avoiding the traffic, the suburban trains are a great option that will give you a taste of local life.
The six kilometres long Marina Beach qualifies as one of the longest beaches in the world and it is where I like to start the day. Depending on how much you want to walk, you can catch an autorickshaw to cut off some distance, but if you start at the fishermen estate in the South and walk all the way up to Fort St George, you’ll get the full experience of the fish market, boys playing cricket and all kinds of food and drinks stalls.
When you reach Fort St George, take the time to enter for a visit. The grounds of the fort are large and not all parts are accessible to the public. I didn’t spend too much time there, but found the collection of old canon, militaria paraphernalia and other items dating from the English colonial time worth a look. The fort is located at the boundary of the Georgetown district, which is one of the city’s oldest and more traditional quarters. Around Mint Street you will find a busy labyrinth of streets, shops and stalls. It should be around lunchtime now and you will have no difficulty finding an idli shop where you can sit down for a rest and some food. Pick one that also sells fresh juices – the choice of tropical fruits is large in Chennai!
SHOPPING, TEMPLES AND A NIGHT AT THE MOVIES
After lunch, jump in an autorickshaw and head to Anna Salai for shopping. Anna Salai is a long and busy street and not particularly enjoyable for walking, so depending on how much time you have, you can ask the autorickshaw driver to stay with you make your way around the shops. If you like a good book, a mandatory stop is Higginbotham’s bookstore. The store on Anna Salai is the first store opened by the publishing brand and I guarantee that you will be amazed that the selection they have available. If you don’t like books, the iconic building is still worth a visit. Another stop I like to make is at FabIndia, an Indian clothing brand where you will find good value, high quality and sustainably produced garments. If you fancy trying some Indian cooking at home or you simply want to pick up some healthy snacks for the road, do not miss a visit to Nuts ‘n Spices. Both Fabindia and Nuts ‘n Spices are chains (you will find the latter in Chennai only) so check upfront which branch is most conveniently located for you.
Tamil Nadu is the known for its impressive and colourful temples and you have not seen Chennai if you have not visited one. Ask your autorickshaw driver to drop you off at Kapaleeswarar temple in Mylapore, which is one of the biggest temples of the city. The streets around the temple will be lined with food and flower stalls. You will see practicing Hindus picking up gifts to take to the temple, but it is also a good moment to pause and eat a fresh coconut. Non-Hindus are welcome to enter the temple (although you won’t be allowed in the inner sanctuary). Take your shoes off at the entrance and be aware that you will be approached by “guides” offering you a tour of the temple. I personally prefer to visit on my own, but if you are visiting at a busy time, a guide can be useful to help you navigate the crowds.
For dinner, ride another autorickshaw to Phoenix Mall in the Velachery district. It is a large and modern mall and not particularly interesting unless you need to do some efficient shopping. However, it also houses a large cinema and is perfect for seeing a Tamil movie. The Tamil movie industry is booming and local residents of all ages will go crazy when a new blockbuster is released. Needless to say, the movie theatres fill up, so buying the tickets online a couple of days in advance is not a bad idea. Before or after the movie, depending on timing, you can sit down in one of the many restaurants the mall contains.
HERITAGE SITES AWAY FROM THE CITY
If you have a couple of extra days to spend in Chennai and you want to get away from the hustle and bustle, there are some great options for daytrips away from the city.
- A visit to St Thomas Mount probably won’t take you the whole day, but it makes an enjoyable escape. I took the suburban train to St Thomas Mount station, realised that the walk to the sanctuary was still relatively long and jumped in an autorickshaw to reach the entrance. At the time of my visit, there was a gathering of the Christian community on and it made me realise how large the Christian population of India actually is. From the gate, 160 steps are to be climbed to the top of the hill where the church is located as well as a number of statues and shrines. On a clear day, you get a lovely 360 degrees panorama of Chennai as a bonus;
- Mahabalipuram is a UNESCO world heritage site of rock temples and other monuments at a 90 minutes’ drive from the city centre. The temples, dating from the 7th century, are no longer active places of worship, but nonetheless the site can get extremely busy. Leave early to avoid the crowds and the heat of the day. On the way from Chennai to Mahabalipuram, you will find lots of places to stop for food or tea, so there is no need to worry about breakfast before you set of for the trip;
- The former French colonial town Pondicherry is a long day trip, but worth the trek. A stroll around the French Quarter, with its posh colonial houses, cathedral and basilica reveals the history. There are countless restaurants to choose from and a seaside promenade to chill out by the beach. Count three to four hours to reach the town by car from Chennai. I recommend renting a taxi for the day rather than taking the bus, so you have the opportunity to stop along the way to break up the drive. The pleasant route will take you along the coast and there are several points of interest, tea stalls etc that make a nice break.
LINKS
- Murugan Idli Shop: http://muruganidlishop.com/
- BBQ Nation: https://www.barbequenation.com/
- Azzuri Bay: https://www.zomato.com/chennai/azzuri-bay-adyar
- Copper Chimney: https://www.copperchimney.in/
- St Thomas Mount National Shrine details: http://www.stthomasmount.org/
- Higginbotham’s bookstore: http://higginbothams.co.in/
- Fabindia: https://www.fabindia.com/
- Nuts ‘n Spices: http://www.nutsnspices.in/
- Phoenix Mall: https://www.phoenixmarketcity.com/chennai/
[…] I said, “something where you would go with your friends”. I was on a work trip in Chennai, South India, and ready for exploring the local food scene. My local colleagues looked at each other doubtfully. […]