It’s been almost a year since my last trip to India, but the lovely weekend in Kerala still sits fresh in my memory! I occasionally get the opportunity to travel to Bangalore, the capital of Karnataka state, for work. It’s mostly a business town and after a few years of travelling there, I’ve managed to visit most of the landmarks within easy reach. On the last trip I ventured further and took the sleeper train from Bangalore to Kottayam in Kerala, on an overnight journey that took roughly 12 hours.
The sleeper train (and trains in general) are the best way to travel India. They are cheap, you get to enjoy the landscape and you get to relax much more compared to flying. If you are travelling to India, do consider a long train journey (or more!). Keep on reading for my experience and practical tips travelling on the sleeper train from Bangalore to Kerala.
Humsafar Express: train and facilities
Carriages & berths
The sleeper train from Bangalore to Kerala I took was a Humsafar Express. I was excited to travel on the Humsafar Express trains as they are considered a premium sleeper trains. They are a relatively recent addition to the Indian Railways’ rolling stock. The first Humsafar Express started service in 2016. The one I travelled on in November 2018 was brand new and had only just started service. All Humsafar Expresses have pretty turquoise carriages that look very inviting, but being new this one was particularly nice.
There is a limited choice of ticket classes compared to many other trains, but they are just right for the type of journeys these trains cover. Many Indian trains have up to seven classes, making it hard to pick the best one for the trip. The Humsafar Express has got just Sleeper Class and 3-tier AC. Sleeper class is the cheapest. You are sleeping in open-plan, 3-tier berths lined along both sides of the corridor. 3-tier AC is somewhat more expensive. It also offers 3-tier berths, but they are lined on one side of a central corridor and hidden from sight with curtains. This means you get less noise as people get on and off and haul luggage around. You also get a bit more storage space for bags.
I travelled in sleeper class, because I booked late and 3-tier AC tickets were sold out. However, I would normally book a better class to improve my sleep quality! I got the lower berth, which was nice for a couple of hours as I could look out of the window, but very annoying whenever we stopped during the night and people walked past. If I get the choice, I will always go for the upper berth!
Facilities
Compared to other Indian trains I’ve been on, the Humsafar Express was very well equipped. For bedding, I got a cotton sleeping bag and pillow (both freshly washed) and a blanket. I also brought my own sheet sleeping bag as I wasn’t sure bedding would be provided. If you like to be warm at night, bring a proper sleeping bag as the trains get chilly at night. I could manage with thick socks and a jumper, but wouldn’t have minded and extra blanket!
Luggage in sleeper class needs to go under the beds. Large suitcases can be left in luggage racks at the end of the compartments. My large rucksack could fit under the bed and my small rucksack (containing my laptop and other valuables) came to bed with me.
In 3-tier AC, passengers have a socket and reading light. There is no wifi on the train and only a limited phone signal as the train travels through remote areas and across state borders.
There are two toilets in each carriage, which have a basin where you can wash. The facilities were clean, but very basic. Expect to need a shower upon arrival.
Safety
Like the other Indian trains I’ve been on, the sleeper train from Bangalore to Kerala felt very safe. Indian trains generally have a good reputation when it comes to safety. I happily travel on my own as a female foreigner.
I know that India does not generally have a great reputation when it comes to the attitude towards female travelers, but don’t let isolated incidents in the news scary you. I’ve taken several trains (and other modes of travel) around India and never had any bad experiences. Inevitably, a white woman on an Indian train will attract attention: people will ask questions and perhaps want to take a photo with you. Even though this can get a bit tiring after a while, people are polite and friendly, so I just smile and go along with it.
The main risk on the sleeper trains is petty crime. Again, the Indian railways don’t have a bad reputation, but just like in any other busy place there are reports of theft. I always keep my valuables such as passport and phone on me and I kept my small rucksack containing my laptop with me in my berth. I’ve seen some people chaining their suitcases with a bicycle lock so they can’t be removed at night without attracting attention. This is especially useful if you have a large suitcase that needs to go in a luggage rack as opposed to under your berth.
Food & drinks
The sleeper train to Kerala does not have a pantry. You have to bring your own food and drinks. I came with a bottle of water and a small evening meal, but families and larger groups will commonly bring large picknicks and spread out for eating them.
Even though there is no official pantry, you can still get food and drinks if you haven’t brought anything. Sellers will hop on and off the train in each station selling everything from coffee and tea, over soft drinks to homemade hot meals. I bought a coffee off a guy for just 10 rupees.
Sleeper train schedule
The Humsafar Express travels two times a week between Bangalore (Banaswadi station) and Kochuveli in Kerala. It leaves Bangalore on Friday and Monday at 1900, arriving in Kochuveli the next day at 0905. It returns on Thursday and Sunday. We got off the train in Kottayam, three stops before the terminus around 0730 in the morning.
Travelling on this route on other days is possible with other train types. There is a choice of both daytime trains and other sleeper trains. However, the Hamsafar Express is the most efficient option as it’s relatively fast and the timings are civilised.
The journey on the sleeper train
Departure from Bangalore
It is advisable to get to the station in Bangalore early. It gets very, very busy when a large train departs. You’ll need to find the right platform as well as the boarding section for your carriage, as the trains stops for a short time only. Since Bangalore is mostly a business town, I easily found someone who spoke good English to show me to the right platform and explain how I could find my boarding section.
Once I got on the train, I sorted out my luggage and got comfortable in my seat. People turn the seats into berths when they go to sleep. Like most other passengers, I ate my dinner, looked out of the window and did some reading. I had been worried that people would be noisy throughout the night, but by 2100 people spontaneously started to make the beds. Since sleeper class is open-plan, there is no privacy to change clothes. The best thing to do is wear a comfy outfit that will last throughout all stages of the journey.
I find the main difference with European sleeper trains is that the Indian sleeper trains make regular stops throughout the night. In Europe, I am used to a more or less continuous point-to-point journey without stops (perhaps a couple early in the journey or towards the end). The Indian sleeper trains stop regularly, and people do get on and off in the middle of the night. Being in the open-plan sleeper class, this was a bit annoying as I woke up at every stop.
Arrival in Kottayam
As I mentioned earlier, stops are short so you have to be ready when your station comes up. People will actually start jumping off the train whilst it is still moving. I wasn’t so adventurous and waited for the train to stop. When the arrival time approached, I started to ask people around me if anyone was getting off at Kottayam. When I found some people going to the same destination, I basically just followed them as they started packing up and moved towards the doors.
Cost and buying tickets
Until not very long ago, booking Indian trains as a foreigner was a huge undertaking. I had to ask a local colleague to book the ticket for me, since the Indian Rail website wouldn’t accept foreign payments. Since this year however, 12go.asia have added India to their offering. This is a gamechanger! Bookings open three months before departure date. Demand is not high to the extent that you have to jump on the website as soon as your booking dates comes along, but trains do sell out. If you are keen on a particular class or berth, you should buy the ticket at least a couple of months in advance.
Top tip: if the train you want is booked out online, you may still be able to get a ticket via a travel agency. They have access to tickets that have been held back from sale, including the “tourist quota” places which makes it easier for foreigners to get short notice train tickets.
I’ve anecdotally heard that the prices of the Humsafar Express trains are quite a bit higher than those of other sleeper trains in India, but they are still very affordable. I paid around 20 euros for a one-way ticket in sleeper class. In other train types, sleeper class tickets start at 9 euros. 3-tier AC is around 30 euros.
When booking a train ticket, you can choose between a “general” wagon or a “ladies” wagon.
Continuing the journey?
If you are visiting Delhi, Chennai or Kolkata as part of your India trip, check out my blog posts about these cities.
